It’s not the first time the Columbia City Bakery has been mentioned in the New York Times (or the second), but owner Evan Andres was once-again quoted in a great piece on artisinal bread makers and independent bakeries entitled “Against the Grain.” The whole piece is worth reading. Andres gets mentioned in a discussion of customer misunderstandings of alvéoles, the holes that occur in a quality loaf:
But it’s not always easy. Artisanal bakers get used to hearing satisfied sighs from customers, but also an array of complaints, like “the crust tears up my mouth” or “the mayonnaise keeps seeping through the big holes.”
For bakers, the bubble-holes, known as alvéoles, can be a badge of honor, a sign of a well-mixed, well-hydrated, well-proofed dough. “I tell them we put a lot of work into making sure those holes are in there,” said Evan Andres at Columbia City Bakery in Seattle.